A few people have enquired about the 18oz Ghost Armour – what exactly the hell is it?
Well, Ghost Armor is the name of the original, super slubby 19oz denim developed by Oni’s denim mill that preceeded the current 18oz version.
I think the original Ghost Armor was developed around 2004/2005 – at around that time Samurai also used the same/similar denim on one of their special edition jeans.
Anyway, the famous Shoai denim is basically a natural indigo dyed version of the Ghost Armor, AFAIK.
(I remember a discussion I had with another denim nerd about the virtues of applying natural indigo on a super slubby denim: I thought it was superfluous, since the ultra-slubbiness on the Ghost Armor already gives a natural variation in the sheen & indigo, thus defeating the point of the Shoai denim – why spend double the $$$ when the effects are oh so similar? To me, it would have made more sense to use natural indigo on fabrics with subtle irregularities, such as what the Nihon Mempu mill has done for Sugar Cane. But that’s very debatable and besides the point.)
In 2009, Oni released an updated fabric to replace the 19oz Ghost Armour – a 18oz version with a richer but more subtle irregularities & slubs, thus better mimicking hand-woven fabrics.
The twisting force use in the weave was increased, and this new fabric was called Ghost Twists.
But I kept calling it by the old name, because Ghost Armour sounds better, ahahahahaha 😛
Anyway, here are some pictures.
They haven’t been worn much, but I’ve scheduled them for Winter of 2011!
And finally, some bonus pictures.