Roy x Cone Denim contest, some more details

Probably the most exciting denim contest since a bunch of Japanese dudes got together with their Samurai Jeans many years ago.

Here are some pics of the denim and the jeans for those who haven’t been looking…

(Photos of the denim by Paul Trynka, photos of the jeans by Roy Slaper…well someone took it for him while he wore the jeans anyway :P)

 

Warp face:

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Warp face zoomed out:

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Warp face zoomed in & angled:

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Weft face:

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Weft face zoomed in:

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Selvedge line + human hand:

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Warp face & fringe after washing test by Roy:

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Man in prototype contest jeans:

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Front close-up:

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Back close-up:

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Some interesting things to note in terms of the denim, the K87211.

It is loom-state, straight off the vintage looms at Cone’s White Oak plant – no further processes or treatments have occurred.

It has a grey-green colour pre-soak, a very dark and ‘arid’ feel to it.

The smooth but loom-chatter-y texture is similar to the special Cone fabric Roy is using for his retail jeans.

 

The denim then achieves a somewhat increased indigo colouration after being soaked.

According to Paul, in his probably very accurate estimations, the colour will first fade to a turquoise hue and then finally to the white of the unbleached, undyed core of the warp yarn.

Apparently it may be a slow-fader too.

I will have to wear these consistently and hard to produce good results in the one year contest time frame!

Thanks to Ralph and Paul for designing this 🙂

 

The jeans also seem very unique.

Note the 1890s to 1920s style detailing, but with a very modern slim-straight leg (not without historical precedence however!).

By no means a reproduction of any sort, more of an interpretation me thinks.

 

The slant-cut front pockets seem nice and functional.

So too is the cinch-belt which is set below the belt line – allowing for a belt to be worn without the rivets scratching the backside of the leather.

The exposed rivets are something I haven’t experienced in quite a while (ever since my SDA d1334), and I shall be hammering them down flat 🙂

The rise seems to be quite generous also, an interesting contrast with the slim-straight legs…

It’s Roy’s famous top-block/bottom-block separation I guess.

 

I don’t know whether these details are the final production specs – Roy is working through the 30 orders as I type these words (hope he’s getting a kick out of making these unique jeans!)

Some aspects of the final product I wonder about include:

1. Leather patch? If yes, placement?

2. Pocket fabric?

3. Roy’s famous embroidery?

4. Other interesting tags?

5. Crotch rivet?

6. Back pocket lining?

7. Extra crotch re-enforcement?

8. Type of inseam? Felled?

9. Button specifications?

I’m thinking Cone Denim might also be providing the pocket fabrics and buttons – would like to see some White-Oak branded buttons or chambray fabric for pockets 😛

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2 thoughts on “Roy x Cone Denim contest, some more details

  1. It wasn’t Ralph who speculated this would wear to a turquoise-green – it was my guess, given the samples, and other related Cone fabrics. I would bet that any mid tone colors will only come out after the first soak or wash. We shall have to wait and see.

    I think the fabric will make a fascinating contrast with some of your Japanese denim – a bit of loom chatter, a few neps, but I doubt you’ll get the pronounced vertical striation seen on many of the Japanese vintage interpretations. It will take a long time for its character to emerge. The inclusion of the Black Seed weft was an acknowledgement of the heritage of pre 20s Cone denim, which had a big Sea Island cotton content, and these jeans were tough beasts – slow to fade.

    We talked about using chambray for pockets… but ROY didn’t respond, my understanding is he thinks they’re a gimmick. I think we’ll have to settle for the chambray boxers, instead.

    Lastly, that slim cut is not without precedent, plenty of 1890s jeans were worn slim, although usually with taper and slightly wider thighs. I like that it’s vintage but retains a recognisable ROY ‘look’.

    But what’s fascinating is that, beyond the known unknowns, there will be unknown unknowns. I think we’ll follow up with an interview on the design of these jeans, to be posted initially on the Cone blog; but to preserve those unknowns, I don’t think we’ll post it until the jeans are in the care of the planet’s various postal systems.

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