A relatively new comer to the scene of Japanese denim jeans, Gun of Artist denim (Thailand) first caught my attention when he acquired some of Nihon Menpu’s 40400 fabric.
The 40400 was the 14.25 oz, natural indigo dyed, RHT denim which Sugar Cane used for the now retired sc40400 Hawaii-ai model.
Initially, AFAIK, Gun hired workshops to make jeans for him – but after some difficulties with reliability as well as product QC, he decided to go at it by himself – Gun ended up learning how to make a pair of jeans, from scratch, on old school machinery.
Not only that, but the customised hardware, details, Gun’s passion for denim as well as his newly acquired Nihon Menpu 40500 fabric was just too much for me to resist.
(40500 was the 14.25 oz, natural indigo dyed, RHT denim which Sugar Cane used for the now retired sc40500 Edo-ai model)
I just had to get a pair of Artist Denim from Gun:
The cut is a slim-straight cut, and I order true to size.
The jeans, pre-soak, fit me more like a pair of slim jeans – and it seems like it will shrink from tag size.
A waxy coating on the leather – I’ll be doing some work on the patch after the jeans dry.
As suggested by Gun, yellow threading throughout.
I have tabs, ha 😛
Trying to incorporate some of that Samurai Yamato flavour, hence the exposed coin-pocket (which I don’t use.)
Laurel wreath top button.
The rest of the fly buttons are textured-donuts.
UFO external rivets, including the crotch rivet.
Full waist chain-stitch.
Selvedge-fly with shell-stitched ending.
Shell-stitch finish at the selvedge-fly seam – very nice!
Copper hidden rivets – very straight bar-tacking.
Well constructed button holes.
Great internal construct – no loose threads or messy stitches.
Outseam and inseam both looking good.
The chain-stitch on the hem is spaced like Levi’s of yesteryear – solidly done with poly-core threading.
40400 denim as pocket cloth – love the texture on that denim too!
Little Nihon Menpu tag…
Very happy with Gun’s work 🙂
I can’t believe how much he has progressed with jeans-making in the past few months!
Anyway, these will be my next project after the Roy x Cone contest.
The 40300/40400 denim will make for some interesting contrast with the more subtle American denim on the contest jeans.
More reviews and pictures when I get around to actually wearing these Artist jeans, please stay tuned!