Espresso calf.

There’s something curious about Tricker’s espresso burnished calf leather.

I know not it’s tannery of origin, except that it comes from Italy, and is vegetable tanned.

The curious thing is that the leather becomes lighter in colour with age, much like some shades of cordovan from Horween.

It is not too long ago before I gave these Stows a good layer of Saphir’s MDO creme polish (dark brown)…but see, if you look carefully at the toe-cap of my right boot (would be on the left hand side in this photo)…

The colour is definitely becoming a lighter shade ย of brown, with a strong hint of red.

This effect is very pronounced on the tongues were the laces rub against, and also becoming apparent on the left toe-cap too.

One of my favourite boots, and certainly one to keep an eye on in the months & years to come.

(See that streak of red peeping out from underneath the laces?)


4 thoughts on “Espresso calf.

  1. Hello:

    I also own a Tricker’s Bourton in espresso burnished calf on a Dainite outsole. I do care deeply about chrome allergies incurred. Could you confirm that the espresso burnished calf of Tricker’s is vegetable tanned and free from chrome salts? What’s your informed source?

    According to your remarks, there is every reason to believe all burnished calf leathers from Tricker’s come from the same tannery and are vegetable tanned. I really hope so.

    I look forward to your favorable reply. Thank you.

    Wang-Yeh Lee

    1. Hi,

      I know that Tricker’s usual calf leathers are vegetable tanned (exactly which vegetables I do not know) – but as I am not an official representative of Tricker’s or the tanneries they use, I cannot confirm or deny anything.
      My source is Tricker’s factory shop.
      I do not know if all their calf leathers are from the same tannery.

      If you do have a very serious chromate allergy, then perhaps it is better to consult an immunologist or your local pathology lab, as I do not have the knowledge to advise you re: leather allergies.


      1. Dear Mike:

        I don’t really have a chrome allergy. I cherish and appreciate vegetable tannage for the most part mentally, not physically. “Biological” or vegetable-tanned leathers should deserve much phrase and respect. I hope every pair of finest British shoes I own and cherish is vegetable tanned and friendly to the environments.

        Share my latest news about Tricker’s leathers with you. I have an authorized dealer who has spoken to the Tricker’s leather buyer claims that all of Tricker’s calf leathers contain chrome except for the waxy pull-up cavalier calf leathers. It’s so disappointing if this statement is true. What are your remarks or opinion about that?

        Kind regards,

        Wang-Yeh Lee

      2. Hi,

        Ah I see.
        Yes, I agree, vegetable tanned leathers are indeed worthy of treasuring.
        Though, I must say modern vegetable tanning – for the most part – are not what they used to be compared to earlier last century.
        Very few tanneries still do an all natural vegetable tannage – you’d have to go with private tanners to get the more traditional stuff outside of Europe.

        To be honest, I’m not very knowledgeable regarding most of Tricker’s leathers – they work well enough as footwear leather, but footwear leathers are mostly on the rough side compared with leather used for carry goods.
        I would not be surprized if they choose to use re-tanned leather (chrome salt tanned first then vegetable tanned later) or something similar…to be honest, leathers with a bit of chrome work better as footwear leather.
        It is somewhat impractical to use vegetable tanned leathers on footwear unless it is heavily finished, e.g. waxed calf, shell cordovan…
        I had a pure, undyed vegetable tanned pair of boots once – didn’t turn out too well ๐Ÿ˜›

        Thanks for sharing the information btw !


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