Following up from the post about my meet-up with Bryan, founder of The Rite Stuff, here are some more details about the ‘Harvester’ long-sleeve henley shirt that was briefly featured.
The Harvester henley is the second shirt being released by The Rite Stuff, and is again being made by Japanese workshops under the supervision of John Lofgren. Pre-orders are being taken for December, my own Harvester here being an early sample.
Bryan himself has provided a very interesting write-up on the brand’s blog discussing the early miner’s underwear & sporting roots of the henley shirt and his thoughts behind the design, which you can read here. What we’ll do in this post is to have a closer look at the details…
If you already follow Bryan on Instagram or have been watching The Rite Stuff’s release pre-orders, you’ll have seen Bryan wearing his size M Harvester already.
Now, Bryan is a trim and fit guy.
Me? Not so much.
If you’ve wondered how the Harvester would fit on a chunkier ape, see below. I am 185 cm, 97 kg, chest size 44, wearing an XL.
The fit is not overly tight, allowing the henley to be worn both as an undergarment and as outwear. The body is tubular in shape. The upper arms are relatively roomy, and the sleeve length is on the longer side (yay!)
The waist is not overly slender, but does allow very neat tucking of the shirt as there’s not much excess fabric.
The cuffs at the wrist is fairly snug fitting, stretching out slightly with wear. Bryan has mentioned that the production version of the Harvester will feature cuffs that are more stretchy.
Overall, the Harvester henley is boxy yet long, a vintage style fit for the taller modern man.
The medium weight, all-cotton knit featured on the Harvester is made of unbleached, ecru cotton. Ecru is best described as a very natural, fawn colour.
The fabric breathes well, and provides sufficient insulation for venturing outdoors during Spring and Autumn times. It drapes very well as far as cotton textiles are concerned.
Small pieces of the cotton plant remain in the fabric, showing up as small, irregular brown pieces of inclusion within the fabric. The inclusions do make the fabric mildly scratchy at first, but this feeling is gone after one or two washes.
The ribbings for the cuffs and neck feature the same ecru cotton.
A good comparison for the ecru colour would be the contrast with the bleached white tag, as below.
Navy and ecru threads are used.
The 14 mm cat’s eye buttons are made of brown mother-of-pearl.
These have incredible variegation in tone and colour, showing some very nice colours with sufficient light.
All in all, the materials featured give a very organic feel (and are indeed, all natural). The rustic colours could combine well with any variety of workwear and denim.
Details & Construct
The Harvester features some neat details.
First up is the centred, button-down neck opening, which features three mother-of-pearl buttons. These cat’s eye buttons are wider than the usual shirt button, and are very easy to use.
The placket facing curves at the top, giving a neater appearance when worn.
The familiar The Rite Stuff woven tag feature on this Harvester prototype. According the Bryan, the production version may use a new tag design.
The neck ribbing is attached to the body with rugged lock-stitching.
Two layers of fabric feature as a half-circle inset at the posterior neck, to assist with perspiration absorption.
The ribbed cuffs are sturdy and well attached to the shirt via lock-stitching.
Indeed, most of the Harvester is put together via lock-stitching, which is impressively executed.
There is some single-stitch action only at the placket facing.
A cool detail is that along the side and shoulder seams, the inside threads of the lock-stitch are blue coloured, resulting in some interesting dual-tone contrast inside the shirt.
The Harvester henley is a very interesting piece from The Rite Stuff, and perhaps telling of the path that brand has embarked upon more so than the earlier Heracles shirt, with Bryan focusing on turn of the century to 1930s detailing and styling.
The materials, detailing and overall construct are truly well thought out & executed, perhaps slightly understated – this is not a chunky indigo henley costing in the hundreds, but rather the Harvester is a basic but considered addition to a work-wear collection.
The Harvester henley is a versatile garment that will add a bit more authenticity and retro feel to your outfit – by itself, under a horsehide jacket, beneath a wool over-shirt……however you wear it, the Harvester will increase the matching permutations in your wardrobe.
At $95 USD for Japanese sewing and materials, the value is certainly there! A similar long sleeve garment from one of the Japanese work brands will cost at least 30% more.
Like I mentioned earlier, the Harvester is currently in pre-order stage, with delivery scheduled next month. Check it out at The Rite Stuff! This one comes highly recommended.