A few thoughts on the Wavy Standard straight tapered jeans, as there seems to be a few comments and questions floating about.
First thing is of course, the fabric. A couple of people have asked regarding comparisons to the Godzilla denim from Japan Blue. Here’s my take:
Both have very slubby wefts and somewhat irregular warps, and are similar weight. There seems to be a trend in the past couple years with regards to slubby weft fabrics, whereas previously most slubby fabrics had slubs in the warp – will they crock differently?
SEXSG24 has a looser weave, is unsanforised, and stretches more easily. Also, theSEXSG24 is the rougher of the two, more hairy, more tactile likely due to the larger slubs in the weft, and is less rigid once settled.
On the other hand, Godzilla has a denser weave and is sanforised. Further, the Godzilla is more rigid but has a smoother feel, it is more comfortable. Godzilla crocks fast, not sure about SEXSG24 yet. Both are pleasing to the hand, perhaps the Godzilla more interesting visually due to the tea coloured weft…I don’t significantly favor one fabric over the other, to be honest.
The Wavy Standard denim is certainly very tactile, but not as intensely rough or uneven on the surface compared with slubby warp fabrics like one the Oni ‘Ghost Spiral’ or Eternal 872. The interesting texturing is perhaps in the ‘cross-section’ of the denim, when you rub the fabric between the forefinger and thumb.
This denim, while rough & rigid to begin with, breaks in very quickly. It loses much of the rigidity and roughness just after a few days of wear, and does not crease too strongly even with the tighter fit.
The fit is where I would deduct a couple of marks off this very cool pair of jeans. Firstly, these jeans fit much tighter than measurements would suggest.
If you purchase TTS (true to size), the fit is NOT straight tapered. Nope, not straight at all. It is indeed a slim fit with mild taper. I would not recommend purchasing TTS – consider sizing up by one, if not two – there isn’t a whole lot of room in the top block at TTS.
Do keep in mind though that this denim stretches easily: Post-soak it was almost too tight in the waist & top block, but after 3 days I could pull these jeans off without undoing any buttons.
Further, whilst on paper, the rise might be considered medium, in reality it is closer to low-medium due to the relatively low back-rise in contrast with the front-rise. I have found myself very conscious of how low the back-rise really is over the past few days. My preference would be for a back-rise at least one inch higher.
In my opinion this cut needs further modification if it were to be a straight tapered fit with medium rise. The back rise needs to go up, and there needs to be more room in the seat, crotch & thighs relative to the waist size.
One last observation is the leather patch. Whilst the deerskin is good quality, a couple of SuFu members have noticed the heavy surface finishing/coating breaking off after the first wash/hot soak. Also, it seems like whilst this transparent finishing is intact, it is not possible to feed the leather, i.e. the top coat is not porous.
It will be interesting to see how this patch ages, especially after a couple of machine washes. You can see a photo of the patch on my pair after one warm hand-wash. The surface finishing is intact, covering the grain of the leather.
My opinion so far?
Many unknown qualities in this pair. How will the denim age? Will the denim be durable given the short cotton staples & loose weave? How will the leather patch age given its heavy finishing?
Speculations aside, the fabric proves very interesting, and the only negative remarks I have at this time are with regards to the fit in the top block, as mentioned above. The fit, of course, is subjective.